It’s been a while since I posted a good collection of doors, but luckily my trip to Marrakech supplied an embarrassment of riches. Unfortunately, our break coincided with the 6.8 magnitude earthquake that struck Morocco’s Al Haouz province and destroyed several buildings in the capital itself. We were uncomfortable about making the trip but the insurance wouldn’t have paid out and we reasoned, in the end, that tourist income was very much still needed. And I’m glad we went. The city is so friendly and vibrant, the food delicious, and the architecture and culture mesmerising.
Thankfully, Marrakech escaped largely unscathed. But the clean up effort meant several of the key buildings and tourist haunts were closed. We did however manage to see the Koutoubia, with its 12th-century 250ft-high minaret – a prototype for the Giralda in Seville – and its surrounding gardens; as well as the beautiful Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa, a stunning Quranic learning centre. Founded in the 14th century under the Merinids, and exquisitely decorated in the Saadian era, the Madrasa is somehow at once bustling and vibrant yet peaceful and serene. The tiles and ornate plasterwork are some of the most impressive I’ve seen. Hours were spent navigating the medina and the labyrinth of souks, with their multitude of spice stalls, centuries-old leather tanneries, colourful stalls of pottery and woven goods, and exotic, inviting smells. I could have filled my suitcase with lanterns, carpets, silver jewellery, brass and wooden carvings….if I knew how to haggle, that is. My ingrained English sensibilities protected my bank balance.
Where else would I recommend? The Musée de Marrakech exhibits a collection of Moroccan art within the salons of the Mnebhi Palace and is certainly worth perusing. And the imposing 12th century stone gate Bab Agnaou, the main public entrance to the royal kasbah, should be visited. One of my favourite places was found outside the old city though – the electric-blue art deco studio of Jardin Majorelle. Bought by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent in 1980 in order to preserve the original vision of landscape painter Jacques Majorelle, the gardens are a kind of trippy, psychedelic desert mirage containing 300 plant species from five continents. The tranquil (if expensive) courtyard cafe provides respite from the throngs of visitors.
Definitely see all those things (and more, if you’re lucky enough to go when Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs are open), but do leave time for some mint tea and b’stilla (a type of sweet meat pie) overlooking Djemaa El Fna – the city’s main square. Go there as the sun begins to set. Snake charmers, dancers, and an array of stalls selling tagine, mechoui (roast lamb), makouda (spiced potato cakes) and zaalouk (aubergine stew) all set up at sundown. And the square becomes even more noisy and full of life.
Here are a few of my favourite photos from the trip – the all-important doors intermingled with some other snaps of the city…
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